Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
